Marrakech is quite unique and for the first time visitor I strongly recommend that you dive into the dazzling whirlwind as soon as possible. Undoubtedly the best way to absorb the atmosphere is to wander down to the main square or Jemaa el Fna. Take up a position on one of the restaurant balconies, which over look the square and simply watch one of the worlds, greatest shows unfold.

By day the square is busy with fresh orange juice vendors, stalls which stack pyramids of dates and nuts, snake charmers, boot cleaners, dentists with their trays of pulled teeth, henna tatooists and healers with an assortment of potions, some living some not!

But as the sun begins to set, the hot food stalls are set up and their lamps lit, shouts are heard encouraging the crowds to try the different specialities on offer such as sheeps cheek, brochettes of lamb, harira soup and of course couscous. By mid evening the crowds have really begun to gather and are entranced in the spectacle of musicians, dancers and storytellers. There is no let up until midnight when the stalls begin to pack up ready to return the following night.

The most remarkable thing about the Jemaa el Fna is that the revelry hasn’t changed in hundreds of years. This was where the tribes from the desert came to trade with the merchants of Europe and the Marrekechies provided every possible way in which to get the travellers to part with the money in their pockets. Tourists have now replaced the traders but the concept is still the same!

There is plenty to keep you occupied in Marrakech but a couple of day trips outside the city are well worth considering. Essaouria on the coast is a pretty fishing port, with its white washed buildings and blue shutters, it reminded me so much of the Greek islands. Wander down to the port at sunset and choose your seafood from the wonderful selection available, dinner should cost no more than £5. The Atlas Mountains are a dominant feature of Marrakech, constantly covered in snow they provide a stunning backdrop to the city. A day trip is a fabulous way to appreciate the incredible scenery and life of the Berber villagers.

But if time is short, Marrakech will provide a constant source of entertainment. The souk is one of the best in the country and will easily consume a day of wandering through its sun dappled allies and bargaining for crafts and goodies, but be sure to bargain hard as the traders enjoy a good banter. If you desire a real Moroccan experience then you simply must stay in a Riahd, a traditional house once owned by wealthy traders they have been lovingly restored. Heavy ornate doors conceal beautiful courtyards with colourful mosaics, flowering bougenvillia and pools of water scattered with petals. The bedrooms lead from the courtyard and with original architecture and authentic furniture they provide an oasis of calm.

Having received several warnings by friends to take care with the local food, water and even the local men, I am delighted to report that it is an incredibly warm and friendly country. Guide books describe Morocco as ‘A country of contrasts’, I wasn’t sure if this was going to be just tourist board jargon but I soon realised that Morocco was a country that words could not adequately capture.